Old Man Winter

Water pump from canadian tire.

disregard thermostat at bottom. it did not come with the pump.

Optional item is the Dorman 902-803 pump hardware kit. They are about 10-25 bucks and have the thread lock already applied to them. They are said to only fit up to 95 v6s but they looks identical to what the L36 needs. Had I known, I would have definitely purchased these.

Drain coolant via petcock valve on the driver side low point on the rad. it'll be stubborn, so get the channel locks on it. Once you crack it loose, you'll be able to continue with your finger. Remove your rad cap to help it drain.

There are two common problems with the 3.8 Series II L36 NA engine. They are problematic upper intake manifold(UIM) and lower intake manifold(LIM) gaskets.

The first step is to determine if your L36 has ever had the UIM replaced. This is simply performed by looking at the date stamp on the UIM. If it has, then the next step is to see if your engine is still housing Dex-Cool. Dex-cool is orange/red in color, check your reservoir.

Dex-Cool is believed for creating problems with the factory plastic lower intake manifold gaskets and allowing them to deteriorate prematurely. This will lead to either, coolant passing into the combustion chamber, or directly into the crank case. Coolant in the crank case would be the worst scenario, as coolant and oil create a detrimental fluid that will cause crank bearings to wear out and seize. The solution is to replace the gaskets with revised aluminum ones in lieu of the plastic.

Because the upper intake manifold needs to come off to access the lower intake manifold gaskets, it makes sense to do these procedures together.

Your UIM Kit probably came with two stove pipes as such.
1-Original on top, the one at the bottom left is the one you want. The one on the right is for another engine, possibly the camero?
2-4-I didnt have a battery for my calipers, but you can see the difference between the old and new. Measuring for the diameters of old and new.
We'll be installing the new stove pipe later on, so hang on the one that fits the LIM or both if you are still un sure.

Your throttle body might look like this. It needs some seriously cleaning... this stuff is stubborn and greasy as fuck. I usually dont swear on PB but thats because I really need to convey how tough this grease was. I have seen ball joints freshly greased, less greasy than this.

1-If you still have the rubber intake neck on peel it off
2-As such
3-Remove your MAF
4-Remove your IAC, it is recommended to spray some PB blaster prior removing these screws. I snapped one as seen in the next picture
5-Snapped head. The IAC screws actually have thread lock on them, making it difficult to remove. This snapped one needed careful attention and drilling.
6-Flip over to the screen side and remove the C clamp with needle nose pliers, or a paper clip even worked for me
7-Open the throttle
8-Gently push with a rubber ended screw driver
9-Mine got stuck at this point and I coerced it with an exacto, picking between the edges

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