I'd like to be able to tell you that the stock headlights were really deficient and I needed an upgrade. But that'd be a lie. I just like HIDs. And I found this HID kit on eBay for 27$ with free shipping. So here we are!

The T100, like a lot of Japanese offerings from the 90s, uses H4 bulbs as stock. While they do their job perfectly well, they make the conversion to HID a little bit trickier. The reason that's the case is because the H4 has both high and low-beam as two filaments in one bulb. I've used other kits that use just an HID low beam, but with a standard filament bulb for the high beam. While these worked so-so, I do use my high beams a lot, so I prefer the HID high beam as well.

This Bi-Xenon kit solves the issue by mounting a single HID bulb on a moveable base. When you energize the high beam circuit, a magnet is activated and pulls the bulb back slightly, giving it the correct alignment in the housing to give you HID high beams, while retaining the proper cutoff and function of the low beam. I was skeptical about this because I thought the beam pattern would be a terrible compromise. I finally decided to give one a try and what a surprise! Teh beams are fantastic. Me likey long time.

Headlight discoloration and foggyness seems to be a Hawaii thing. I have no idea what in particular makes them go so bad here compared to elsewhere but you can tell how old each car is by how yellow the headlights are. Even cars just a few years old will start t go yellow and foggy. Anywho, here's what I did to try and rectify the issue, at least somewhat.

  1. For this job we'll be using a mothers powerball cone, Meguiar's Plast-X, a drill, and Kona Brewery's Big Wave.
  2. Here is the offensively yellow headlight.
  3. Splooge some Plast-X on your powercone. Use lots because the cone will absorb a lot at first. You might want to make sure the drill is on low speed at first so you don't end up giving yourself and your car a Plast-X shower. If your car is fancy you may want to mask off the surrounding trim. I had no such concerns. Slowly work the splooge onto the headlight until you cover everything and you have a decent layer. Slowly ramp up your cone speed and make sure you get all the little corners. Once you can start going a decent cone speed, stay on it for a good 5-10 minutes, you really can't hurt the light. Just apply a slight pressure, no ram-jamming needed. 4-6. Here's the before/after. Passenger side light before, driver side after polishing.

That's the sound my truck was making. There was really no doubt what was wrong. The tailpipe was pointing at a crazy angle, and everything was noisy as balls. So I figured I could do my poor truck a favour and try and remedy the situation.

Now let me say this was no small proposition. Here in Hawaii I didn't have much tools, so I set out and rented a Lincoln wire-feed welder and a Makita sawzall from Home Depot. It as big dolla dollas to rent, but I figured I would replace pretty much everything from the headers back and make it all up nice, so it'd be worth it.

The next step was hitting up all the automotive supply stores for materials. This was a big disappointment. I couldn't find the normal selection of straights, 90s, 45s, hanger stock etc that I would need to do it up the way I liked. No one even had "sport" mufflers over the counter. And ordering something? Forget it. 6 weeks ait as the norm.

Sufficiently distraught, I ended up buying a replacement OEM muffler that O'Reilly's had in stock (random), and a couple adapters to hopefully be able to cut and splice things together. Oh Hawaii how you like to make working on stuff difficult.

I should stress that I wasn't that worried about the exhaust noise and I COULD have ordered the stuff I needed, to replace it weeks later, BUT my annual safety and plate sticker were both expired, so I really didn't want to be more conspicuous to the po-po than possible, and I couldn't renew the plate without the safety, or the safety without fixing the exhaust. So there it is. OEM replacement (barf!!).

Your engine! Yay!

Unscrew your filler cap and place it on your beer holder.

Find the drain plug and crack that right open. While the oil is draining you might as well find your oil filter and get started on it. This oil filter must have been changed about 50k miles ago so it was pretty much welded on at this point. Nothing a set of channel locks and a lot of beastly filter-crushing can't handle.



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