20

Electric Lift Pump

By
booneylander
840

UPDATE

The electric pump installed here didn't resolve the engine starting issue which turned out to be caused by a fuel line that had worn through and was allowing air to get into the system, and causing the truck to die. Since this mod I have replaced the fuel lines (see other chapter) and when I went to re-install the electric fuel pump it came apart in my hands, so I didn't end up using it, and instead installed a new OEM mechanical pump and the truck runs amazingly well.

Photo Grid

Numbered
Add Comment

I did this "mod" while trying to correct an engine starting issue, I will post it here with all the info for reference later.

So the engine kept getting harder to start, seemed like it was starved for fuel, because if I cranked it long enough it would fire. Usually once it had been running for a while and was warm everything was fine, but then it started to be hard to start even after just a brief shut-off.

Then it just quit wanting to start at all. So I got it going by starting it on ether, with the intake heater disconnected, and drove it home.

I installed an electric lift pump and bypassed the stock mechanical one, new fuel filter. Truck still wouldn't start. I thought it might just be a matter of an air bubble somewhere so I started the truck on ether again and ran it for a bit. Cracked each injector and made sure fuel came out. Shut it off. Still wouldn't start.

Thinking maybe it could be something funny happening the with FSS I put 12V to it and heard a nice solid click. Tried powering it directly in case the wire to it wasn't getting a solid 12V while starting/running and no change.

I got it started again on ether because I needed to use the truck so I figured I could just run it and not shut it off then work on it some more later but this time it wouldn't really idle. I could start it and it sounded nice, would get a small puff of white-ish blue-ish smoke. Would rev up ok. Then if I let it sit and idle it would idle for a bit (maybe 45 seconds) then it would start to slow down like it was under load, and eventually stall. If I caught it slowing, and got on the accelerator, it would kind of rev up for a bit, then slowly it would clear it's throat, and roar back to life like a champ, and a big cloud of the white-ish blue-ish smoke would come out again. It smelled like unburnt fuel, not like coolant. Then as soon as I would leave it, it would start to bog down again and the same thing would happen, until it eventually just died. I never made it out of the driveway.

I pulled out the cold-weather timing advancer solenoid thinking maybe it was doing something wrong, it was getting 12V to the solenoid with the key on, but the solenoid would never click or do anything, if I applied 12V directly to it or not made no difference, and when I took it out the little pin was all the way into the housing of the solenoid. Not sure if this could be a problem? Will check into that later.

So now that you have the background, here are the steps for installing the electric fuel pump.

Photo Grid

Numbered
Add Comment
Add Comment

Here is everything with the fuel lines disconnected. 1. The "high pressure" connection fro the mechanical fuel pump to the fuel filter housing. 2. The fuel feed from the tank which had a rubber hose to the mechanical pump inlet. 3. The mechanical fuel pump mounted on the block.

Photo Grid

Numbered
Add Comment
Add Comment

Here is the Mr.Gasket diesel fuel electric pump. It doesn't look very impressive but the specs on it were decent to replace the stock mechanical pump and the price was right (85$ instead of 200$ for a replacement stock pump). I cleaned gunk off the driver's side fender, marked and drilled some pilot holes, then screwed in the self tapping hardware that was included.

Photo Grid

Numbered
Add Comment
Add Comment

Locking nuts on the backside of the fender. No lack of undercoating here!

Photo Grid

Numbered
Add Comment
Add Comment

Here is the pump with fuel lines hooked up.

Photo Grid

Numbered
Add Comment
Add Comment

I just quickly wired this up as a temporary because I was trying to gt the truc running. Will clean up the wiring later. Basically I just ran a switched 12V to the relay (I picked a nice vintage Lada relay to match the rest of the truck), I took 12V off of that fusible link on the fender for power then grounded everything to the fender. It works mint!

Photo Grid

Numbered
Add Comment
Hide
They are actually band clamps not gear clamps, which should hold up to 60-80psi. The lift pump is bvery low pressure as all its doing is making sure fuel is available for the Injection Pump, so they run 5-15psi. Prime by vacuum, no pump in the tank. It's a gerotor pump and is nice because it's internally regulated so it needs to fuel return to the tank. - booneylander October 4th 2012
sweet. Other than the trouble shooting, doesnt look that hard to install. All just gear clamped? So there is no pump in the tank? how does it get primed? just purely by vacuum? - ripcurl October 2nd 2012

Lookup
Add

Keyword
Loading
Mark for Deletion
Are you sure you want to mark this record for deletion?Engine Electric Lift Pump