40

Oil Change

By
ripcurl
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Received a box of goodies.

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You should see his 57 step Air Filter chapter... - q20v August 26th 2013
ahhhhhh much better. Every step of the way needs to be documented :D - ripcurl August 26th 2013
I'll take caps off now. - Unic0rnie August 26th 2013
MY GOODNESS YOU EVEN TAKE A PICTURE OF THE BOXES?? OK....GOT IT... JUST WAIT 'TIL MY NEXT POST. - Unic0rnie August 26th 2013
Not really. Previously there has been a rough idle at times, almost seems random, and I am keeping an eye out to see if that comes back(apparently a poly snub mount fixes this, but wouldnt it resonate more?). Just before the oil change, I've also been experiencing the chain rattle at cold start, which is apparently common when regular oil reaches its life span. We'll see how this stuff does in 5,000km. - ripcurl August 14th 2013
Notice any difference with the new oil? I did the Lancer a week ago with synthetic and I noticed it got a lot smoother. - q20v August 14th 2013
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Very well packed, especially for the heavy load. I purchased the oil service kit from ECS. The kit contained: -10 liters of Liqui Moly Synthetic 5W-40 Oil -Hengst oil filter and housing o-ring -Drain plug sealing washer Acquired for $87.95, free shipping to OG.

Other items will soon be installed.

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What are the filters on the left for? - q20v August 14th 2013

Park your car, pull the E-brake and install wheel chock.
I jacked the car up on the driver side, but you want to jack it up on the passenger side.

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Removing the upper cover 1-Pull up on left side 2-Pull up from the rear 3-Man handle as such 4-Remove and say hello to the oil filter housing 5-6-Locations of the cover nipple mounts

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Remove your skid plate. Refer to future chapter. Its pretty self explanatory to remove. Get the oil bucket

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1-Get your number 10 hex bit and crack the drain plug. 2-Put some gloves on, and remove the plug with your fingers. 3-And avoid the down pour. 4-Toss the plug in a safe spot.

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Get top side again while the oil is draining, wrap the area with a shitty 'ol towel and crack open the filter housing. Use a 24mm wrench or bit/ratchet combo. I used a 15/16th which worked fine.

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Separate the filter from the housing cap. You just need to wiggle it out. if you feel you are forcing it, just look at your new one and it'll make sense.

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Makes it easy to see any metal particles in the filter media! - booneylander August 19th 2013
I was wondering if it was over due or something. Good to know. - ripcurl August 19th 2013
My car (BM) has the same oil filter design. They always seem to come out gross looking. - q20v August 14th 2013

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"After you've tightened everything up return the towel to Cheryl's bathroom.." - q20v August 14th 2013

1-Peel off the filter housing cap o-ring and replace with newly supplied one 2-Dap some fresh new oil on the o-ring all around 3-Clip in the new filter 4-Slip it in 5-And bang, finger tight 6-1/4 turn with wrench should seal the deal

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1-Replace the oil crush washer with the new 2-Finger install the drain plug 3-Tighten to 30ft lb or about 1/4 turn past finger tight

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Remove your oil cap.

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I noticed that the rubber gasket peeled off some of my valve cover coating with it.

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Take off the gasket and clean it all off. Go back to your valve cover and clean as much loose material as you can.

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Grab the moly

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Some have reported 1 liter per 1,600km. However, the capacity isnt large because of this, that was a joke. If the engine is consuming that much oil, you need to keep an eye on it. I wouldnt want the engine dipping down past 8.5 liters for very long. "Audi "apparently" knows of this issue, but do not want acknowledge it." I have yet to find that reference/source of where that is generated, but thats the rumour on the wire. Maybe dealership stories? - ripcurl August 20th 2013
For real? - booneylander August 19th 2013
Its actually 9.5 litters, but they designed it for some much capacity because the 4.2 eats about 3-4 liters between oil changes. :P - ripcurl August 14th 2013
10 liters, serious capacity! - q20v August 14th 2013
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and do this

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Good time to take a break while the first bottle is draining. The engine capacity is 9.5 liters of oil.

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I drained the 2nd bottle until this point.

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Re-install your oil cap. Start your car, let it idle/drive for 3-5 minutes, turn off and wait 3 minutes. Then check the oil level.

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Check your drain plug, oil filter housing and then the oil level. Should be bang on based on the 2nd bottle picture. You want it at the top of the hash marks on the dip stick.

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Reinstall your engine cover and under drip tray and bomb around. Check the level after your first drive and make sure you arent loosing anything.

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