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B7 Key Fob Upgrade

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ripcurl
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Going from the old style key fob to the new style B7 fob is a nice relatively cheap and easy upgrade.

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Hardware

There are two options to source a B7 FOB.
Used OEM B7 keys go for as low as 23 bucks on ebay. New Chinese knock offs go for 20 bucks on ebay. Some are 3 dollars, but thats only a case without a circuit board.
The ebay ones are cheeeeeaaaaaaappppp. The battery cover tabs break easily, the coating scratches easy and the button material feels even cheaper and wear quickly. Snag an OEM unit if you can.
Also some ebay units do not come with a panic button, which in someways looks cleaner.

Other than quality, the main difference is the ebay ones require reprogramming every time you disconnect the car battery or replace the fob batteries. OEM stay programmed forever(where you only need to hold the lock button and insert into ignition/ON and its re-programmed, the ebays ones its a longer process).

The used OEM will need a new blank key blade. Where the ebay ones will come with a blank already. The ebay ones do NOT come with a ID48 chip. So source accordingly.

There are essentially two functions to the FOB. The first is to turn the car on. The second function is the lock/unlock/trunk/panic buttons. These two functions are completely independent from one another from a hardware and programming standpoint.

To get the proper lock/unlock/trunk/panic buttons to work, you need a key with an FCC ID : MYT 4073A
315mhz
8E0 837 220 L or R
All of this information is just behind where the blade rests, so no need to disassemble anything to locate.

To get the turning of the car on to function properly, you need a virgin IMMO ID48 chip, or steal your old B6 chip. Your old B6 chip is the ONLY thing that can be pillaged from the old remote. Well and the battery, but thats it. Not the blade or circuit board.
Virgin IMMO Chips can be had here:
http://www.keymam.com/
or on ebay. I've sourced from both with successful results. ID48 chip required

Both Ebay and OEM will need new blades to be cut. From the stories I've read online(I'm paraphrasing here), IF the dealership is willing to touch your blade, they send it off to a desert in Europe, apparently to a skilled basket weaver that lives in a house for fun, who then ships it to an unknown PO box in Belarus to be inspected by a troll, who rolls a deltoidal icositetrahedron, that determines if the fathers will grant permission of such witch craft to take place. If so, he'll wrap the forged metal in a black magic carpet back to Germany, which actually acts as a time machine to when the merger of the four companies originally took place in 1910 to form Audi. to then be cut by some young engineering student for 190 bucks, which is cheap given the process it goes through. But seriously, I dont think dealers cut blades.

Or you can goto your local lock smith, call first, and they can do it for 15-20 bucks.
You will also need the latest CCCM to get the B7 fob to work, covered in the sections below.

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Negative. The circuit board and buttons that control lock/unlock/trunk/panic from B6 to B7 are completely different shapes. You can steal the immo chip from your b6 fob and plant it into the b7, but that only starts the car. The buttons are the other half to make the fob work 100%. - ripcurl February 24th 2018
Can you not just get a China key, and just swap the complete guts and blade from your old key into the new style housing? - booneylander January 14th 2018

Removing the switch blade is relatively easy. Get a finishing nail it only took two gentle blows from a hammer to loosen it then it came out with ease.

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There is only one way the new blade can go in, so make sure you check before you attempt to reinstall the new pin. These blades were loose as hell... I am hoping the lock smith has a pin that is slightly thicker to jamb in.

Update: I've tossed in some jb weld before inserting the blade and its held up for 2 years. I have also simply used some paper, folded around the end of the blade, hammered them together, and then cut the excess with an exacto, and so far it is holding up too.

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LMK if he doesn't and I will machine you one. - q20v January 25th 2015

To program the virgin ID48 chip, you need to obtain your four/five digit SKC code, which can be sourced from the CPU, the cluster or your B6 key. The most common and documented method is from your cluster. Here is how.

You need to locate a program called Vageeprom. its on the inter black webs out there. And you need VCDS.

Note, there is lot of potential in bricking your cluster here, proceed with caution.

Open VCDS -> Option -> put cable into dummy mode, by deselecting "Start up intelligent mode"
Click Test
Wait
Click Apply -> Close window, but keep VCDS open
Open Vageeprom
Go to drop down menu Dash -> Bosch -> RB4(MUST BE RB4) ->Read/ENcrypte
A pile of numbers start flowing like the matrix, the cluster makes a pile a noise, you may think its all going south pretty hard, but hold on. Once the noises stop.
Go to File -> Save to save the .bin file in case you brick this
Dash -> Bosch -> RB4 -> Set mode from 6 to 4
Dash -> Bosch -> RB4 -> Read/DEcrypte
Things will process for a few seconds.
You'll get your 4 digit pin code at the bottom of the page. write this down multiple times. I save this .bin file too for safe measure
Dash -> Bosch -> RB4 -> Set mode from 4 back to 6
Close everything
Test original key to make sure nothing bricked.

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Key Matching for NEW VIRGIN ID 48 CHIPS

Prerequisites:
All keys are either a VIRGIN ID48 chip or existing ID48 chip that was already programmed to the car. You can not swap an ID48 chip from one car to another. once it is programmed to a specific car, it is permanent.
You can match up to 8 keys per car.
While adapting each key, make sure to place the other keys away from the ignition lock (reader coil). The passenger seat is an adequate place.
Battery voltage at least 12.5 V, I toss my battery charger on as it always takes longer than expected.

Insert original/already paired key to ON position, Open VCDS

We will check to make the ID48s to make sure they are read/writable.
[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Meas. Blocks - 08]
Select Block 022
[Go!]
The value in field 3 must be 1. If value is NOT 1, the ID48 is NOT capable of being adapted to Immobilizer.
You can check each key in this manner.

Now you need to verify that the car is ready.
Select Block 024.
[Go!]
Make sure the shown lock times in field 1, 2 and 3 are 0 (each field represents a time in minutes).
If the lock times are NOT 0:
Do NOT switch off the ignition!
Allow the car to sit for AT LEAST the number of minutes that were indicated by the fields 1-3.
[Done, Go Back]

[Login - 11]
This is where its going to ask for your 4-digit SKC.
Enter a ZERO first, followed by the 4-digit SKC. For example, if your SKC is 1234, enter 01234.
[Do it!]

[Adaptation - 10]
Enter 21 in "Channel Number".
[Read]
The "Stored Value" is the number of keys currently matched.
Enter a "New Value" corresponding to the total number of keys you want to match, including any existing keys.
Any old keys are automatically being cleared. All keys, including existing keys, must be matched at the same time.
[Save]
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Repeat the following steps until all Keys have been matched:
Switch Ignition OFF and remove Key.
Insert the next Key and switch Ignition ON. Wait The Immobilizer Warning Light on the DASH will light up for ~2 seconds, wait until it goes out, indicating that the key has been matched. ie : the dash will show '2 - 5' if pairing 5 keys.
Note: The above steps must be completed within 60 seconds after saving the Adaptation!

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For any 2003 and older A4, and some '04, you'll need to check your Central Convenience Control Module(CCCM) part number. There are two version, an early and late one.
8E0 959 433 T is the early
8E0 959 433 BB is the late
The split is somewhere between 2003 and 2004. You need to have the late BB version in order to get the lock/unlock/trunk/panic to work. the CCCM is located under the carpet, where your left foot rests. You can check your part number through VCDS in module 46 - Comfort System. If you have a BB version, you are good to go.

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Programming

This is for the LOCK/UNLOCK/TRUNK/PANIC buttons.
As mentioned previously, with EBAY purchased fobs, if you pull your car battery or you change the batteries in your fob you will need to re-program every time. OEMs stay linked forever.

There are two kinds of programming. If you have remotes that have been previously programmed to the car, the steps are easy. If it is brand new, then the steps are different.

Steps to reprogram keys to a car they are ALREADY linked to:
1. Press and hold the unlock key on a remote
2. Insert key in ignition and turn to on (while still holding unlock)
3. Hold unlock while in the on position for 2 seconds
4. Turn key to off, remove from ignition and release button

Do this for each remote. Relink to seat positions (press and hold mem position #, then unlock button for 2 seconds and release both) and done.

To program new remotes on a car never linked to previously:

  1. Take a key (valet key works best, put it into the ignition and turn the key to the "on" position, so the dashboard lights come on.
  2. Roll down the driver's side window (not required, but a good idea in case there's a problem).
  3. Exit the car and close the door.
  4. With a second key, physically lock the doors by turning the key clockwise (don't use a remote).
  5. Take the first remote to be programmed, press the unlock button. The lights will flash once.
  6. Wait 10 seconds and press the unlock button. The doors should unlock. That first transmitter is now programmed.

If you have only one key skip to step 16. Otherwise continue to step 7.

  1. Lock the door again (physically) with the key, (not the remote) by turning clockwise.
  2. Press the unlock button two times with a one second interval in between, the lights will flash with each button press for a total of two flashes.
  3. Wait 10 seconds and press the unlock button. The doors should unlock. The second transmitter is now programmed.

If you have three keys proceed to step 10. Otherwise skip to step 16.

  1. Lock the door again (physically) with the key, (not the remote) by turning clockwise.
  2. Press the unlock button three times with a one second interval in between, the lights will flash with each button press for a total of three flashes.
  3. Wait 10 seconds and press the unlock button. The doors should unlock. The third transmitter is now programmed.

If you have four keys proceed to step 13. Otherwise skip to step 16.

  1. Lock the door again (physically) with the key, (not the remote) by turning clockwise.
  2. Press the unlock button four times with a one second interval in between, the lights will flash with each button press for a total of four flashes.
  3. Wait 10 seconds and press the unlock button. The doors should unlock. The fourth transmitter is now programmed.

  4. Remove the key from the ignition.

Make sure that to test the newly program remotes, the original key is removed from the ignition since this exits the programming process. Someone might be a bit frustrated trying to test it with it still in 'program' mode.

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VCDS Progamming Alternate
The previous programming worked flawlessly on my S4. However it would not work for my 6spd. The same results can be achieved by VCDS, here is how:

Start Vag-Com
Choose [46 - Comfort System]
[Adaptation - 10]
Go to channel 021
[Read]

  • Choose the memory position you want the new key be matched on by entering it's number (e.g. "3" for memory positon 3).
    [Test]

  • Now press any button on the remote you want to match.

  • The meas. block field above will change from Not Recogn. to Recognized.

[Save]

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