10

Upgrade : HIDs

By
booneylander
840

Brighter is better!

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Dec 15th 2014

I'd like to be able to tell you that the stock headlights were really deficient and I needed an upgrade. But that'd be a lie. I just like HIDs. And I found this HID kit on eBay for 27$ with free shipping. So here we are!

The T100, like a lot of Japanese offerings from the 90s, uses H4 bulbs as stock. While they do their job perfectly well, they make the conversion to HID a little bit trickier. The reason that's the case is because the H4 has both high and low-beam as two filaments in one bulb. I've used other kits that use just an HID low beam, but with a standard filament bulb for the high beam. While these worked so-so, I do use my high beams a lot, so I prefer the HID high beam as well.

This Bi-Xenon kit solves the issue by mounting a single HID bulb on a moveable base. When you energize the high beam circuit, a magnet is activated and pulls the bulb back slightly, giving it the correct alignment in the housing to give you HID high beams, while retaining the proper cutoff and function of the low beam. I was skeptical about this because I thought the beam pattern would be a terrible compromise. I finally decided to give one a try and what a surprise! Teh beams are fantastic. Me likey long time.

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Yeah exactly, the bulb is relocated and hits the reflectors differently. - booneylander March 30th 2015
so the out put doesnt actually change from low to high? just the cut off is adjusted? - ripcurl February 28th 2015
so the out put doesnt actually change from low to high? just the cut off is adjusted? - ripcurl February 28th 2015
man have HID kits come down in price since 2010 - ripcurl February 28th 2015
  1. Here is the kit. The only real difference compared to the normal HID kit you'd be used to is the larger bulbs, and the control relay on the far right of the picture.
  2. Locate your stock bulbs.
  3. Unplug them and go gross. Clean the plug.
  4. Remove the dust boot.
  5. Stock bulb vs. HID. I can imagine the size difference could make fitting them in some tightly packed engine bays problematic. Fortunately I have so much room under the hood I could probably smuggle a lovely bunch of coconuts back to the mainland under there.
  6. HID bulb installed. Man-handling the retaining wire around the bulb was a bit tricky, just be patient.
  7. The dust boot re-installed. I ended up having to slit the dust boot slightly to get it to fit over the bulb. No big D.

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  1. Connect the (+) to the battery, this feeds permanent power to the HID control relay.
  2. Fuse in the (+) feed line.
  3. Connect the H4 socket from the control relay to your stock headlight plug.
  4. Connect the HID bulb leads, the bulb controller plug (square) to the control relay wiring, and the ballast power leads to the relay wiring (not shown).
  5. Here is the ballast and relay. I then zip-tied everything up and snuck it all behind the battery.
  6. Hook up the chassis ground from the relay wiring.
  7. All hooked up passenger side.

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  1. Run the long wire to the driver side. Both bulbs are ed from the control relay, so your second OEM bulb socket won't be needed. 2-3. Install the bulb and hook up the ballast.
  2. Chassis ground.
  3. Secure your wiring with your best friend, zipties!

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Take your new setup for a test rip! I bought 4500K and they are nice, still a bit blue for my taste bet hey for 27$ I won't comlpain. They throw out a TON of light. I turned the camera way down to be able to capture some detail about the beam pattern. As you can see it's not perfect but it is very good in my opinion. An added bonus compared to separate high/low bulbs is the fact that because the same HID bulb/ballast is always running, you don't have any kind of heat-up time when you click on your high beams, it's an instantaneous transition at full brightness.

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