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JHM 6-Rib Alternator Belt Conversion Kit

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ripcurl
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This is the JHM 6 Rib Alternator Conversion Kit V2.0, comes with the following:
-Light weight alternator pulley
-Light weight crank pulley
-Automatic tensioner
-Gates 6 rib belt
-New crank pulley hardware

I was scheduled to replace the serpentine belt, and figured that its a good excuse to get this kit.

This kit comes with an automatic tensioner(JHM exclusive), which should have been designed like this from the factory. And more importantly you save 5.8 lbs of rotating mass which should speed up getting to 7500 rpm.

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I dont know if full service position is required for this, but I was here. Removing all of the components is pretty straight forward.
-Loosen the tensioner with a 13mm, and 17mm if need. just doing the 13mm should do.
-Remove belt
-Remove tensioner, two T30 bolts
-Remove idler pulley cover, pulley and pulley back plate

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Belt seems good for 92,000km, but still going to replace it anyways.

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Remove this alternator mounting bolt. Place the JHM bracket and install with their new hardware. It has been rarely reported that some grinding in this area needs to take place to get the bracket on squarely. Not sure what the interference was, but I got away without any grinding.

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Grab the new bracket, install both lower 5mm torx and the one upper 6mm tapered torx.

Then throw the tensioner on with the long bolt and washer provided.

I couldnt find any torque values, so giver, but be gentle as you are threading into aluminum.

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Removing the crank pulley is a #10 triple head socket. Once removed, flip it over and the collar/bushing/locating pin should be still in the original pulley. If not, it might be on the crank, if not there either, then its on the floor or missing. Find it and lightly install it on to your new light weight crank pulley. Its a little stubborn going in, so I ensured it was straight, then mounted the pulley to the crank and let the bolts draw it in.

If this collar is not located in the new pulley or even old, you run the risk of mis-clocking the pulley which will lead to a lot of vibrations. Apparently this is a common step to miss, especially with shops performing the work.

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With the bushing sorted, grab your new crank pulley hardware supplied with the kit, which are longer than stock. Make sure your kit has these, as mine were missing, but they shipped them without any issues.
Clean the hub, load a bolt through hole the bushing, and toss some loctite. Red is recommended. Finger tight, then grab a socket and slowly walk them in evenly in a star pattern, you'll be working against the bushing which will cause it to not want to draw in evenly. You can easily have it become cockeyed and mess up the bushing.

Torque to 20 ft-lbs in a star pattern

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Crack off the alternator pulley with a 24mm socket on an impact gun. Also hold the pulley with the belt as seen in the pictures.

Once the pulley is removed, also remove the washer that is behind it. This is a common washer to miss, and it will severely mis-align the belt and throw it off. The one shown is the early 2004 Delphi alternator. The 2004+ Hitachi alternator has a small washer, but still needs to be removed.

Install the newness with thread lock. I used the impact again, but dont sit with the gun on full blast for 5 minutes. If you do you'll apparently damage the bearings in the alternator. Just enough to get it tight.

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Grab the belt, wrap it around both pulleys and then use a 1/2" ratchet to rotate the tensioner clock wise and slip the belt on. Check and verify alignment. I forgot the remove the alternator washer the first time and the belt was noticeably off.

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All done! This is a good time to throw a new snub mount on too!

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q20v upvoted

booneylander upvoted

ripcurl published chapter October 17th 2015

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