Before we start, lets get a few acrynoms out of the way:
Flat Bottom Steering Wheel(FBSW) - no controls but flat bottom
Multi-Function Steering Wheel(MFSW) - Has stereo controls but no flatness
Flat Bottom Multi-Function Steering Wheel(FBMFSW) - has it all
Most Audi wheels are all physically swappable. However, there are two things to consider when swapping with another platform.
1-Multifunction buttons Communication Version
2-Your well being, ie airbag compatibility
or vise versa, which ever you value more.
1-There are pretty much two types of MFSWs. Highline and Lowline Communication.
Lowline communication is found on earlier platforms. This is most notibly determined by the MODE button on the left set of buttons on the wheel. The B6 chassis is Lowline communication, therefore only those with the MODE button will work with the B6 platform. Otherwise you'll end up with useless buttons, and no one wants that. edit: but I do!
Highline buttons do not have a MODE button and are not compatible. The wheel I have is a 1 off hybrid, where it has the lowline mode button, but is actually highline communication.
2-All B6s* came with Single Stage Air Bags(SS or SSAB), but no flat bottoms.
B7s and most newer Audi's came with Dual Stage Air Bags(DSAB) and this is when the flat bottom rage started. B7 RS4 has a nice flat bottom set up, but they are DSAB.
Herein lies the rub. My B6 single stage bag doesnt connect to the dualness of the newer wheels. There is a procedure to link the B6 single stage to the High Impact of the dual stage bag. However this has never been tested... Its a well debated topic online and most avoid it. Therefore B7 and most newer wheels are out of the question.
Audi TTs(8v or 8s) models(8v=MkII or 8s=MkIII is the B6 to my S4) come with single stage air bags.
The 8vMkII style wheels have a gianormeous blimp of an airbag cover, and most came with the MODE button. You can even blank off the multifunction buttons if want. But the airbag size wasnt my style, so they were out of the picture.
The 8sMkIII style wheels have a lil button sized airbag in comparison, however coming across one with a MODE button is close to impossible... and no blanks available. But I managed to find one with a MODE button after a long search. I am took a chance with this as no one has tried this to see if it would work. In theory it would, but i'll jump to the chase, it didnt.
If your b6 is like mine and does not have any multifunction buttons from the factory, then you'll need a few new parts to make it all work:
Control Module - 8E0-953-549-R or Q
S/C Ring - 4E0-953-541-B
For reference here is the TT 8v wheel on the left and the 8s wheel on the right. The 8s comes in many variants, perforated leather, s-line badge or neither. The air bag is either a plastic cover, or leather $$$$$$tiched$$ The 8v air bag looks way too big IMO.
Here is the gear I found:
-8sMkII Wheel with Mode button - 8s0 419 091A : $359cad/$280usd +50c/40u shipped to home, plus $50 CODs SOBs. But people wanted 900usd on the fourms for a wheel with the MODE button!
8s0419091 E is the same as A without badge, but has the bottom flares.
Only 8s0419091 A has the mode button.
-Used control module(8E0 953 549 Q) and S/C ring : $121c/$95u, plus $43c/$33u shipped to home
-New old stock(damaged) Leather stitched airbag w/ harness - 8s0 880 201BD. I got lucky here and scored it for $255.87c/$199u +$51.17cad/$39usd shipped to home.
The seller listed it incorrectly as they usually go for$700usd. When he posted it he had 10 listed all with little dents, but listed as a 8v part number(older style). I happen to surfing the net at work looking, noted the discrepancy, quickly purchased it, and within an hour he messaged me saying he listed it wrong, took the ad down, said he would send me the older style, I said no, just give me exactly what is pictured and sure as shit, he gave it to me.
Overall Subtotal : $735+$144+50
Total $929c shipped / 718u
All components in sequence of installation.
You'll need to repin some thing on the air bag harness:
1-Brown - Ground
2-Horn relay - Added wire, yellow in photos.
3-Green - Airbag
4-Black - Airbag
8-Red - Multifunction
9-Purple - DSG(Apparently)
Before and after
The TT harness uses multifunction wire to control the horn, so I had to bypass that To get the horn operational. Pretty straight forward, just add the yellow wire as attached.
Here is the before and after. The wheel is tits. That is all I can really say about it. Despite the non functional buttons, its still friggin sweet. Its thicker, smaller diameter and looks the business. Maybe one day I'll try swapping the circuity of the buttons to get it to work but I dont even use Ang's steering wheel buttons in her car.
Update 2017-05-14 :
I managed to get the button on this wheel to finally work. It took a custom module from Italy to make it work. Here is how I had to install it. Remove four torx, and then get a trim safe tool and wedge it in to the trim, while pulling with your other hand.
Here is the 190EUR conversion module. It tucks away nicely between the outer trim, almost like it was designed for it. It was literally plug and play for me as I had a B7 wheel working.
I ran into an issue, where the left roller wasnt working, except the button was. When I turned the wheel, the radio would change... I thought it was something coding related, and was going back and forth with CHD for a bit. Then one day going straight, I hit a bump and the radio again. Something was loose. Disassembled it all and found the roller selector shaft separated from the roller. I epoxied it back together and its been good since.
Changing the control module and slip ring will make your dash light up like a christmas tree.
The airbag light clears with just clearing with VCDS.
You'll have ESP and ABS lights on as well.
I used this procedure to clear the ESP and ABS, copy paste from another site:
"Ok here it goes :
It all started with an AIRBAG light on, and after some searching I believed the culprit might have been the clock spring so I went ahead and replaced it (http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=1589550 ), well after everything is plugged back and finished there are 2 fault codes in the ABS controller :
00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
66-10 - Not Matched - Intermittent
01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded
35-00 - -
So the ABS controller needs to be recoded FIRST (seems that every time a component is removed the ABS codes set back to all 0-s ) and then the new (or used) clock spring needs recalibration- this is the order to get this done ! of course this is done if the alignment is correct , the car tracks straight and all the ABS components are in good working order condition . if you can't connect to the ABS controller to read faults standing still that means your module is bad (and over 20mph the ABS will cut connection with the com port /VAG !) , so the following will not work .
Here are the steps :
1) Key on , start the car move the steering wheel 10* right then left ( about ½ turn each way is enough) then set the steering wheel straight as it would be if driven in straight line ,
2) Go ahead and start driving for about 50feet with the steering wheel in that straight position and keep it that way w/o moving it ( this is all it took me to get this done , others said they had to drive a longer distance - honestly I don't think it's even needed) .
3) Connect with VAG :
Goto 03 -Brakes/ABS
Pick (left middle)
Login 11 - 09495 - DO IT
Recode - Coding:04395 AND Workshop Code - 06435- DO IT.
( the code 09495 is for a B5 , s4 manual trans , h2p brakes : other cars need different codes !!!! See page 20 of this document : http://vwforum.vwforum.ro/index.php?act=attach&type=post&id=128417 )
4) Now it's time to recalibrate the clock spring ( all this time the steering wheel has no moved , if it did , it's ok you start from this step on - just make sure that now the ABS controller window in BAG doesn't list all zeros for SOFT : 00000 coding and SHOP#: WSC 00000, if it does start from step 1). Clear all the codes in the ABS , get out of it (close controller) and get back in it , now the ABS Controller window should read : SOFT CODING 04395 and SHOP# WSC 06435,
[Login - 11]
Now chec what's in this measuring block 001:
go to [Basic Settings - 04]
It should say that the clock spring is calibrated and ok , and NO error messages ! if you have error messages , you have start again from step 4 ( turn off the engine , start it back up , turn the steering ½ turn each side , drive straight 50feet , with the wheel straight the whole time , leave it that way with engine running , carry on the calibration WITHOUT MOVING THE WHEEL ! )
5) Check fault codes and you'll see this :
01486 - System function test activated
Now it's time to carry on the test , I had to do this a couple times .. to get all the lights off the dash . ABS light was last . I basically needed to take the car for a drive around , make a few turns , hit the brakes , come to a stop .. and eventually all went away never to come back J
Here are ROSS-Tech instructions to complete the test ( this did NOT work for me ) :
* The ESP road test serves to check the plausibility of the signals from the lateral acceleration sender, rotation rate sender and pressure sender.
* It should always be carried out after removing or replacing any parts of the ESP system.
* It is not possible to cancel the ESP road test after it has been started. The complete test procedure must be performed.
* ABS/EDS Warning Light (K47) ON and ASR/ESP Indicator Light (K86) ON.
* Engine RUNNING.
* Vehicle standing.
* Press brake pedal firmly until the ASR/ESP Indicator Light (K86) goes OFF. A brake pressure of at least 35 bar needs to be reached for this. (this did not work for me - I had to drive a bit and when I came to stop the ESP light went away , pressing the pedal standing still did nothing )
* Start road test (Do this on an enclosed site or make sure to drive according to traffic regulations).
* Make a right turn, then a left turn (or vice versa). A rotation rate (turn rate) of ~10 °/s must be reached while driving these turns.
* The ABS/EDS Warning Light (K47) should now have turned OFF.
* A common example for turns like this is driving turns with a radius of 10 to 12 meters (30 to 40 feet) with a speed of 15 to 30 kph (9 to 18 mph).
* The ABS, EDS, ASR and ESP functions may NOT get activated during these test.
* Doing other maneuvers between the turns will have no influence on the ESP System Function Test.
After doing all this the ABS light stayed ON and I had to stop the car , upon startup all the lights were back up and apparently the system only wanted to start the self testing again , as it was still looking for some data ..not sure what , but I went for a drive and one by one all lights went away."
It took a good amount of driving to clear the final ESP, but it eventually went out.
*Recently found a document indicates all B6s had Dual Stage : http://www.audiworld.com/model/index.html : this document is true/false. I'll be checking both my vehicles.
For Aux, if you are using it:
Once in VAG-COM, chose controller '56 - Radio'. Goto coding option.
You will have a number like this:
Change ? to what the pop up menu tells you which I believe is this:
+1 = Analog Input (AUX)
+2 = Multifunction Steering Wheel
+4 = Telephone
You might have previously had a 2 in place of ? as the b7s have multifunction wheels, example:
your new number would be:
use 3 because you want multifunction to remain plus the aux.
Hit the code now button, and never look back.
A is for Tiptronic Paddles + Multi-Function Buttons
B is for Tiptronic Buttons + Multi-Function Buttons
C is just Horn + Airbag (base model with no buttons or shift options)
D is Multi-Function Buttons without any shift control (IE: for a manual)
'notifications are back' as in they weren't working before?
Thanks! Holy notifications are back! I completely forgot about those little bells and whistles....
This thing is all business. I love it
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