My steering was starting to feel heavy and the pump was starting to make an audible noise. I purchased a used unit off ebay for 40 bucks and bought a rebuild kit at the same time. You dont need to go into full service mode like me, but to goto full service mode, is only two coolant lines and to drain/refill. Not a big deal by any means.
Stick an oil pan under the power steering area, crack your power steering lines loose, a 22mm for the line going to the rack and 24 for the return. Just crack them until they are bleeding, open your PS reservoir. Check that the fluid is hitting the pan, it'll trickle off the AC compressor. There is a drain plug on the bottom of the pump, but you have to get on your back to reach that. pffffttttt....
Remove your fan clutch with a spanner and large crescent wrench, reverse thread. IE hammer the crescent wrench clock wise. Grab a 13mm deep socket and breaker bar, release the tension on the serpentine belt(aim at 3o'clock and pull up) and remove the belt.
Use the belt to wrap around the power steering pump pulley and hold it with your left hand, and grab a 6mm allen key in the right while pointing to 3o'clock and pull up hard with both. Make sure you clean the bolts out real good, I spent a solid 20 minutes cleaning them out. And took alot of force to crack these loose.
I'm sure most pulleys just hammer off, but mine needed the puller to remove, which is why I needed to put it in to service position. Remove your lines completely. Then grab a 13mm wrench and remove the two front bolts, and the 3rd behind. Remove the pump.
Here is the rebuild portion of the pump. Remove the metal triangle shim. You dont need to, but I marked my housing orientation. Grab the 13mm and loosen all four bolts. Separate the halves.
Remove the large outer O-ring. Take note of the odd shaped washer seal. There are two parts to it. A typical inner rubber seal and then an outer plastic stiffener?. Remove them both. Pop off the metal plate. its retained magnetically. Note its orientation.
Now remove the c-clip holding the shaft. I used a pin to hold the one end of the clip, while prying the other side and using the pin for leverage. This gave me a little bit of difficulty, so if it doesnt come off right away, its normal. this clip will be un-usable/stretched once removed. Lift the assembly off from the shaft.
Grab a towel, cover the rotary pump and veins/blades, turn it over and let the rotor fall out. Be aware that the veins/blades are very loose and will fall out pretty easily. If one gets away, just review the other ones and match the wear pattern.
The two pins that are oppose from each other are removable and are actually dowels. once removed you can remove the large metal O. This will give you a flat surface to work with the next step.
I hate removing shaft seals. I tired prying with a screw driver, and it bent the screw driver and dented the aluminum housing... I resorted to cutting and pliers which proved useless and turned it into a butchered mess. I gave up, and used a larger/meatier screw driver with some serious leverage and it popped out. Slam in the new seal. Oh and clean before you slam it in. I used brake cleaner, flushing both ways.
I was then at Canadian Tire and noticed this seal remover. I used it on my old pump and it popped the seal out in a heart beat! Good investment for 10 bucks and should make future removals much much easier.
Install the pump shaft, and new c-clip. Dont just open the c-clip. you want to install on end, then work it around the shaft. If you use pliers to just clamp it on, it will fatigue the clip, deforming it and rendering it useless.
Place the top metal hour glass shaped thing and proceed to install the double rubber/plastic seal. Install the large O-ring and close the halves. If you didnt mark your housings, just located the small ports at the bottom of the housing and make sure they align. Lock it down with the 13mm bolts. Tighten in offset patten and gradually. Spin the shaft, and proceed to install the pump.
Once reinstalled, install the shim, pulley and lines. I didnt have new crush washers, so i reused my old ones. I'll keep an eye on them. Fill with fluid, and let it settle, for a few minutes. Boot it up while keeping an eye on the fluid and make sure it doesnt get dry. I used about .75L of fluid for this. My steering is back, but there is slight noise still coming from the pump. I noted the ebay pump to have some wear marks in the shaft cylinder area, and was wondering if was going to be a problem. It was pretty much the same wear as my pump. I thought there was a bearing in this unit, but apparently not. The shaft is held in place through a cylinder that looks to be pressurized with channels making it not entirely rebuildable, which kind of stinks, becasue new units are 300+
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