All B6 1.8t in North America only received one(driver) side mount intercooler. B6 1.9TDIs(Engine code BEX) across the pond got two side mounts. You can buy all that stuff, but its gets expensive in a hurry, or you can simply grab everything from a B7 2.0T. During one of our part outs, I corralled all the gear together to sell to someone for 100 bucks. But the only one interested wanted me to install it as well, and he wasnt to sure what the purpose for two intercoolers was. This 6spd came along and thought, this was the perfect free upgrade to do.
You will want to remove your headlights, bumper and core support completely. The reason to remove it completely, is to swap the cross over IC to IC tube. This means disconnecting the powersteering lines. They come from the factory with one time use clamps, but by this point in time, they probably have simple gear clamps on them. You can disconnect your AC condenser completely, or unmount it and leave it pressurized on the ground(which is what I did).
You will need to relocate your Secondary Air Injection(SAI) pump to facilitate this. Or you can completely delete it. The function of the SAI system is to help get the catalytic converter up to temperature faster in order to reduce start up emissions. This was required in order for the 1.8T to obtain a Ultra Low Emissions(ULEV) rating. If you just delete the SAI pump and hoses, you will end up with a MIL light. No amount of vagcomming can code this out. You will need to flash your ECU... This is primarily why I decided to keep mine for now.
The new location for the SAI ends up where the boost reservoir/Helmholtz resonator is mounted. This Helmholtz res gets deleted entirely. You will need shorter bolts to mount the new SAI mounting bracket, or cut the old resevoir bolts.
I sourced this bracket from a A6 C5 : 8D0 906 615 B
You will need to cut up the bracket and drill one hole to get it to fit, I cut it a lot more than shown.
The original harness will reach. The SAI intake pipe needs to be lengthened about 8", and the outlet hose needs a 90 degree elbow. I used 3/4" heater hose for the intake pipe and gooed it together, and I used a 90 degree plastic PVC PEX fitting and glue it together. I am not looking to get 100,000km out of this set up so I am sure there some more permanent/indestructible solutions, but I digress. The second picture shows the two pieces of hardware I used to fasten the bracket to the block. Once the SAI is installed, it almost looks like it belongs there.
Once the SAI is addressed, I used the following parts to install the second intercooler:
059 145 814 B - B7 Intercooler bracket
8E0 145 806 M - B7 Passenger intercooler
8E0 117 336 N - B7 S-line Intercooler shroud (rev J is for non-sline bumpers) Regardless, I needed to cut it up. 8E0 117 336 C might not require cutting but not sure.
8E0 145 708 K - B7 Passenger IC to cross over silicon piping
8E0 199 521 EB - B7 IC to IC metal cross over tube
8E0 807 682 - Vented fog light grille, grab them off ebay super cheap
A vented wheel well liner is also recommended but was never an options from the factory on the B6s. so you would have to graft one from a B5S4, a TT or a GTI 1JM 809 962 A, or anything really that had them.
Install is very straight forward, as its all OEM fittment. The only hang up was the cross over tube in the rad support. Both lower radiator fan bolts snapped on me, and I spent some good time drilling and threading to re-secure new hardware. I probably could have left them snapped, but, well, you know me. Power steering lines need to be disconnected thus requiring topping up after.
Pictured below, pic 1, is the difference between B7 and B6 cross over tube. B7 cross over tube is attached to the core support, and you can see the passenger side inlet point up, vs the B6 tube being flat.
Second pic is just the jimmy rigged fasteners.
Here is another pic of the difference between the two cross over tubes, the right(passenger side) of the B7 turns up to accept the IC to cross over silicon, otherwise the exact same.
I kept the B6 turbo discharge to intercooler pipe, it only needs to be rotated 90 degrees. You can see the copper plug in the old DV outlet location. I was thinking about cutting the elbow down so the plug ends up flush with the inner tube, but well, I didnt.
As part of all this, I upgraded and relocated my diverter valve. See my other chapter for all the details.
Before and after
With the bumper one, here is the shroud and how much it needs to be cut back.
Some part reference material from ETKA
If you wanted to delete the SAI, here is the diagrams for what you need to do. Ignore the colors in the first one, it merely represents the DV/N249 routing. The second picture shows the ajustemnts required once the SAI is removed.
It was questioned, whether the driver side B7 intercooler could be swapped. One, in the event that yours needed to be replaced for what ever reason, and two, it is two rows larger, adding 16.5% surface area. The short answer is no. It is possible, but not without extensive modifications. While I had everything apart, I tried, and here is why I deemed it not possible.
The main reason why is that the B7 IC is mounted on an aggressive angle. Here are the explosions, side by side, B6 on the left.
IC side by side, B6 left. Silicon outlets on the B7 are 4mm larger in diameter. You can still force the smaller B6 hose on, but its a bear. You will also loose the B6 AC line support as the B7 transfered this duty to the fender bracket. The B7 outlet comes out at a more aggressive angle and 1.5" longer too. IATs are swappable.
Here is the upper mounting points, B6 on the left. Note the angle of the B7.
The B7 bracket fits perfectly into place. Once the IC top mounting points were locked in, the bottom was far from fitting. Looking from below, this is where the IC it interferes with the washer fluid reservoir leaving about 1.5" for the bottom mount to connect.
I had a B7 reservoir on hand, and comparing the two, they are very different. The thought crossed my mind to use the B7 reservoir, but wasnt to sure if there would then be fender/bumper clearance issues.
You could probably do away without the bottom mount, seeing how both silicon hoses really lock it down, but in the name of science, I tried cutting both brackets to make a frankenstein b6lower/b7upper bracket so that the lower bracket would correct the IC angle. I was also hoping the B6 bottom bracket would correct offset so that I could use the B6 silicon elbow from the crossover tube.
I managed to mount the IC in with the b6/b7 bracket. I had to bend up the B7 bracket to meet the B7 angled mounting position, but it fit. It was about this point when I pulled the pin and deemed this not worthy for the following reasons.
The B6 intake silicon bound up into an inefficient S shape, more of a Z. Since B7 IC outlet is ~1.5" longer and on an angle, I tried cutting my B6 hose down ~1" and forcing the hose on, but it wasnt haven any of it.
This is the hose in its natural shape and then being forced on, and out of shape.
I looked at the B7 TB to IC silicon and it wouldnt work at all either. I'm sure you could get some various silicon piping online to make it all work, but I dont have the patience for that. The bumper shrouds also are completely different, from mounting points to shape which fuelled the fire to scrap the idea. I mean it is possible, but to what lenghts do you want to go for an extra 16.5%. Silicon piping is pricey and another 40 bucks for a shroud that you would need to cut up and zip tie together. I know this sounds weird, but I prefer to avoid zip ties. Also, seeing how I am already gaining 116.5% from the passenger side, I didnt feel the need for the another 16.5%.
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