This might be tough. I'll add pics as I come across them. So far I'm up to 50 cars! Don't even get me started on bikes :P

A couple pics of my faves to get started:

  1. 1947 Jeep CJ2B. Does it count if it was a project I started and never finished? To be fair it needed A LOT of work. I totally took most of it apart and put it back together though. A couple big issues which popped up stopped my inexperienced 14 year old self from finishing it.
  2. 1986 Ford F-150. This one actually ran and drove when I bought it. Then I started working on it. It's been parked for 15 years now. I'll get to it.
  3. 1990 Ford Bronco. It technically wasn't mine, but that didn't stop me from getting up to all kinds of shenanigans with it. I also crashed it. A couple times.
  4. 1996 Ford Ranger. It came and went from my hands to my parents' hands over the years but ultimately ended up mine. By the time I retired it, it had 285k km, all of which were "in the family" (mostly me). I rolled it once. It was a tank, probably the most memories were had with this unit.
  5. 1997 Lada Niva. It was technically my parents'. But I adopted it. Then a lady pulled out in front of me and I wrote it when I hit a fence avoiding her. This is the car that lit my passion for Nivas. So much fun! It's still at the farm. Due to go to scrap.
  6. 1997 Lada Niva. This replaced the one I wrote. I painted it yellow. I drove it for years. So many fun memories! It is in dry storage at the farm. Going to bring it home soon.
  7. 1996 Lada Niva. I bought this one to use as a beater. It was blue. I painted it bluer. I drove this one for years too. I ultimately lowered it, turbo'ed it, and then melted a piston. What did I know about turbocharging? It spun all 4 tires on dry pavement in 3rd gear though before the piston melted. I ended up building a nice high-compression NA motor for it and ran it for years after that. Sent it to scrap years ago.
  8. 1993 Lada Niva. Project. I bought it and "restored" it. It was supposed to be a beater. I tried to safety it and the mechanic found that the frame was rotted out. I kind of abandoned it at that point. It is due to be scrapped.
  9. 1996 Lada Niva. It was white. Had a blown motor. I started restoring it and ended up scavenging it for parts for my other Nivas. Still at the farm. Due for scrap.
  10. 1993 Lada Niva. Bought cheap and scavenged parts. Due for scrap.
  11. 1989 Lada Niva. My parents bought this new way back, I actually came home from the hospital as a newborn in this. I then scavenged parts out of it 17 years later. Went to scrap.
  12. 1987 Lada Niva. Scavenged for parts. Went o scrap.
  13. 1995 Lada Niva. Bought a shell to restore, but never did.
  14. 1998 Lada Niva. Bought a MINT shell. It will be coming home soon.
  15. 1998 Lada Niva. My parents bought this but I eventually adopted it and drove it for a couple years to school. It's sill at the farm in "storage".
  16. 1996 Lada Niva. Someone in Montreal actually gave this to me for free because it didn't run and he thought it had a blown motor. He figured I could use it for parts. The body ended up being mint, and after I replaced spark plugs, it ran like a charm. I dry stored it at he farm. It will come home soon too.
  17. 1996 Geo Something-or-other. I bought it from a guy at school for 100$. I chopped it and ripped around the farm with it, did some burnouts and blew it up, sent it to scrap.
  18. 1992 Isuzu Something-or-other. Bought it for 200$, was planning to fix it up, started and got it mostly don,e but there was some issue with it, I can't remember, and it was never going to pass safety, so I gave it to someone to go racing.
  19. 2002 Hyundai Accent. This was the first car I bought that was relatively new and nice. I drove it to college for a few years and had some adventures with it later in life as well. Ended up trading it to my parents for the 96 Ranger when I graduated and needed a truck.
  20. 1983 Mazda RX7. Bought it for the motor, I really wanted to put a rotary in a Niva. I never got past pulling the motor. But I did some burnouts with it first. It was so tight inside I could barely fit let alone move or control the car.
  21. 1996 Dodge Intrepid. I bought this on eBay and fixed a few issues. I was going to drive it. Then I was like "Why did I just buy this?". And I sold it.

I went in to town and bought an air-impact. This compact 1/2" one was rated at 500 ft-lbs and cost a modest $90 so I picked it up. Alarmingly, the set of impact sockets were $50 and I only needed the 22mm, but it wasn't sold individually... whatever I bought them, gotta get the job done after all. I figured with the upcoming motor swap in the T100 I would get some good use out of them. The impact is actually quite nice and very light/compact for the power. I'll be bringing this back to Canada to augment my selection there.

I hooked it up to my tiny little pancake compressor and while it only gave me about 5 seconds of full power action before it needed to pump itself back up again, it got the job done.

With the bolt out, you can just give the crank pulley a wiggle by hand and it should slide off the roll pin.

With the pulley off, remove the lower timing cover, there are 4 bolts.

Now we can remove the engine support bracket.

So basically it went down like this, I was half-planning to do the timing belt on the car, since the mileage was at just about double the service interval on it, but I was going to take care of some other shenanigans first. Then I was driving up the hill and the car started to overheat pretty badly with zero heat coming through the heater vents in the car, so I figured the water pump was gone out. As the water pump is driven off the timing belt, it gave me the extra push to tackle both jobs.

I read some guides online but in honesty I modified quite a few steps to save me some time and to make the whole setup work a lot quicker. So here's my rendition.

If you car still has a decorative engine cover you should pull that off, mine doesn't.

First, jack the car up and pull the passenger side wheel off.

Next, pull the cover located in the passenger footwell to give you access to the crank pulley. It is held in by two bolts.

Then rotate the crank pulley until you line up the timing marks on the pulley and lower timing belt cover.

So right off the hop, the car's clutch felt super wonk. I knew the clutch was nearing the end of it's life because it would engage right at the very top of the pedal travel. However, there was something else, an intangible disconnection from the pedal, the action always felt kind of inconsistent. When I had inspected the car before buying, I had noted that the clutch fluid looked more like a stout than a DOT4, so I figured moisture and junk in the fluid was the culprit.

I initially flushed the system out with fresh fluid, but the pedal action felt identical.

Whilst searching for some way to adjust the clutch travel so that I could hopefully get a tad more life out of the poor worn clutch disk, I came across this hack mod and decided it was worth a shot.

To gain access to your clutch slave cylinder, you'll remove the airbox lid by undoing the clamp at the MAF, and cutting your airbox-lid retaining ziptie (the car came without spring clips - don't worry, they're in the mail). Next remove your air filter and undo the 2 remaining bolts in the bottom of the airbox. I say remaining because my 3rd bolt was missing. I ordered a new one, then noticed during this procedure that whatever bracket it would have been fastened to under the airbox was missing. Normally these cars come with a resonator box deal which on mine had been replaced with a straight-pipe, so I'm guessing that's my missing connection.

Now you can remove the lower half of the airbox and you'll see your clutch slave cylinder sitting there.

Loading

Lookup
Add

Keyword
Loading
Mark for Deletion
Are you sure you want to mark this record for deletion?booneylander
Inspector
close
Chapter Album
Upload an image
Desktop Image Well
 
 
Uploading...
Loading